part 1

LONDON

Saturday 29 November 2008

 

We get up around 5.30am and the door behind us at 6.15. We take the car to Rotterdam Airport. Our VLM flight leaves half an hour late due to fog in London. When we arrive inWacht bij St James's Palace London visibility is still limited and the pilot tells us that he is not sure whether a landing is possible at the first attempt. The alternative is circling around London for an hour or so. Thankfully the fog clears just enough for us to land at the first go. We arrive about 30 minutes behind schedule at London City Airport. This relatively small airport is close to the business centres of Eastern Londen. We take the Docklands Light Railway (DLR) that connects to the underground which in turn brings us to our accommodation in Belgravia. Through the Visit Britain website we have bought a smart travel card for greater London, the  Oyster Card. It has £20 balance for travel loaded on it and it is good for travel on all busses, trams and undergrounds. You are never charged more than the value of a day pass. The system works quicker than the old paper cards with magnetic stripe, which are still in use. Whenever the £20 are used you can easily top it up with a minimum of £5 at a machine. Natives can do it automatically. Part of the underground network is out of service because of maintenance work during the weekend. We have to change once extra. We arrive at  the Bed & Breakfast Belgravia around 9am. We can check in, but the room is not ready for an hour yet. We first go out for coffee at an Italian delicatessen La Bottega, where we are served by a very attractive waiter. After the coffee we walk within 5 minutes to Buckingham Palace, where we take some pictures of the guards, who are dressed in their dull and grey winter outfit, unfortunately. The palace dates back to 1702 and started life as the London residence for the Duke of Buckingham. In 1762 it came into the hands of the royal family and was converted and restyled in the 1820s and once more in 1913. Since 1837 it is the royal residence in London. On the outside is it rather bland and dull. We walk along the Mall and take pictures of the guards outside the entrance to  Clarence House and St James's palace, the residences of Prince Charles and Princess Anne respectively. St James's palace was the royal residence from 1698 until Queen Victoria came to power and moved to Buckingham Palace. Here you can come up real close to the guards. We continue for a bit and take a left into Marlborough Road passing the   Royal Chapel, once built for the Spanish kid bride of  Charles I and later finished for his French wife Marie Henriette. We also pass the Art Nouveau monument for Queen Alexandra, de Danish wife of EdwardTrafalgar Square VII. Its designer Gilbert also created Eros on Piccadilly Circus. We get to Pall Mall, lined with many classical Gentlemen Clubs. A bit later we turn left towards St James's Square. A nice and posh London square, with a couple of foreign embassies and high commissions and the address for the London Library. This  private library is open to members only. It was founded by Thomas Carlyle in 1841, because he was tired of waiting for hours for books he ordered from the British Library, which was not allowed to take home - which he often did anyway. We continue to Waterloo Place, where we see the Crimean War monument. Of course it includes a statue of Florence Nightingale, sporting an oil lamp, which helped her finding the wounded on the battle fields during the Crimean War (1853-56). As a proud and professional nurse Erik has to have his picture taken with her. A bit further down is the statue of Frederick, Duke of York high up on a column, erected a few years before the much more famous one for Nelson on Trafalgar Square. We go down the stairs Covent Garden Market back to the Mall, cross it and walk towards Horse Guards Parade and Whitehall. Whitehall is the home of the Cabinet Office and support the Cabinet and the Prime Minister (Brown). The building is guarded by Horse Guards. The changing of the guard is in progress. Via Whitehall we walk to  Trafalgar Square with the before mentioned Nelson's Column. The admiral was killed during the naval battle near Trafalgar against a  French/Spanish fleet in in 1805. Around the square are the National Gallery and St Martin in the Fields, the parish church for the royal family. From here we take the underground to Blackfriars. We cross Blackfriars bridge across the river Thames go for lunch in the OXO Tower Brasserie run by Harvey Nichols (a department store elswhere in London). The OXO tower is part of a former power station, that was converted in the 1930s into a meat packing plant by Liebig, also known for the OXO stock cubes. A local statute against advertising on buildings was circumvented by integrating the letters of the brand name into the windows and lighting it from within. The building today houses an information centre, shops, work shops, apartments and a restaurant, brasserie and bar on the top floor. We take an aperitif in the bar before we sit down for lunch and the breath taking view of the city and the river.  The food is good: Thai pumpkin soup, followed by sea bass. After lunch we go back to the B&B. We have a short break before get going again to Covent Garden to do some shopping. It is Saturday afternoon, so it is very crowded. The Christmas decorations are out already and we even see some Christmas trees. After the shopping we have a drink at  Ku Bar in Lisle Sreet in Chinatown. The back to the  hotel and quickly on to our restaurant for tonight. We take the underground to Fulham Broadway from where it is quite a slog to Chutney Marie on King's Road. We were a bit too optimistic about that. Chutney Mary is a stylish Indian restaurant. The food is delicious. After dinner we make our way to Soho, where to visit a number of (gay) pubs.

Weather: cold 5 degrees and dry

 

Sunday 30 November 2009

 

We have breakfast in the B&B. Breakfast is well prepared with all thinkable cooked options available, as well as continental things. We take the underground toUitzicht London Eye Westminster. We cross Westminster Bridge towards the  London Eye, the giant Ferris wheel  dominating the skyline since the beginning of the new millennium. We have pre-booked our tickets on line. You have to book for a specific time slot. This is how they control the number of people showing up at any one time. We have booked for a "flight" around 10.30am. Because British Airways runs the Ferris Wheel everything is referred to in aviation slang. We are way too early so we go for a coffee in the Marriott Hotel occupying the western part of the former County Hall. This is where the Greater London Council was based between 1933 and 1986 when it was abolished by Margareth Thatcher, in order to break the Labour Party's hold on London's local government. Now the building houses, besides the hotel, the London Aquarium, an amusement hall and a small art gallery devoted to Salvador Dalí.  We collect our tickets at the counter and report to check in around half pas ten.  In the Ferris wheel, designed by  David Marks and Julie Barfield, are 32 capsules. Those capsules can hold a maximum Petticoat Lane of 25 people. The wheel runs at a constant low speed and a full spin lasts a little over 30 minutes. Beside normal flights you can also book a Champagne flight with luxury catering. The view is, despite the low cloud, quite good. We see a lot of Londen and can distinguish most of the eye catching buildings. 

After our flight we buy the automatically take picture, key ring and frigdge magnet. We walk to Waterloo Station and take the underground from there to the  East End. We get out at Liverpool Street and walk to Petticoat Lane. In this street  Huguenots started selling lady's underwear in the 18th century and gave the street its name. In 1830 the street name was changed to Middlesex Street in order to avoid the mentioning of something taboo like underwear. The old name stuck, however. In the 19th century the street became the centre of Jewish East London. These days it is the spot to shop for cheap clothing on a Sunday. Most stalls are run by Bengals and Africans. We walk on and via  Bell Lane and Brushfield Street we arrive at the old Spittalfield Market. Originally this was the wholesale fruit market for London, but those activities moved away from here in 1981. In the oldest part of the market,dating back to 1893, there is still a lively daily market. On Sundays it is very diverse. We find everything from biological food to clothes and antiques, but it is also possible to have a head massage. We walk past  Christ Church from 1729. Despite a multi million conservation it still looks a bit sad. We continue throughBrick Lane Fournier Street, where once the Huguenots had their weaving shops. The large windows were meant to let in enough light so that the fabrics could be inspected more easily by buyers. We get to Brick Lane. This was the location for a quite a number of kilns, hence the name. It is now the artery of what is being marketed as  Bangla Town. The area is taken over by Bengal immigrants, who have opened up their shops and restaurants here. We have lunch at   Café Naz on Brick Lane. At Naz we find contemporary Bengal cuisine. Sunday afternoons they serve a Bengal buffet lunch. As much as you like for only  £9,95 per head. It is very good. We walk up Brick Lane passing the Jamme Masjid, the big mosque for Bengal East London. The building started out as a Protestant Church for the Huguenots in 1743. In 1809 it became a  methodist chapel until it was converted into a ultra-orthodox synagogue in 1897. Finally the Bengal muslims took over in 1976. A bit further up we pass the buildings of the former Old Truman Brewery. It is now a mulitimedia art centre and a busy market hall with lots of food stalls from various countries. Beyond the rail overpass, the Brick Lane street market takes over, mainly in the side streets. Almost everything is sold here. We have coffee at  Chalounge a very relaxed lounge for coffee and cakes. 

We take the bus until Tottenham Court Road and change to the underground that takes us to Westminster station. From there we walk to the  Cabinet War Rooms. The entrance Cabinet War Room is on  Horse Guards Road on the park side of a government office block. During the second world war the British government built underground bunker shelters to conduct state affairs and lead the war effort during the Blitz - the bombing of the city by the German Airforce. The rooms are now part of the Imperial War Museum. It is impressive to see how the government and the army leadership managed the country from underground. The rooms are seen as they were left behind in 1945. With the help of an audio tour (included in the £12 entry fee) we go round the complex. Most striking are the cabinet meeting room, the secret phone booth for Churchill to contact Roosevelt, the map room and the private quarters of Churchill and his close associates. Churchill spent as little time possible underground. He preferred watching the air battle of Britain from the roof top of Whitehall. Linked to the War Rooms is the Churchill museum, completely devoted to the life and times of the great statesman. Modern technology makes it possible to present the day to day life of Churchill in text, pictures and film. By touching the screens we can zoom in on events of specific days, including documents and films. Very impressive. 

Tired yet satisfied we return to our B&B.  At night we take a taxi to Soho Square for cocktails at The Edge, a trendy cocktail bar and lounge. After that we stroll to Arbutus a restaurant sporting 1 michelinster in Frith Street, 150 metres further down. We eat very well (Pappardelle with veal ragu, followed by rabbit with Cottage Pie and Crême Brûllee for desert) and enjoy the nice New Zealand wine (Pinot Noir Forest Estate 2006). After the cullinary delights we take a taxi back to the B&B. The driver of the private hire car, the restaurant has ordered for us, is not completely familliar with the directions to our accommodation. We have to guide into the right direction (!)

Weer: grey start and drizzle. Dry afternoon. 5 degrees

 

 

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