november 2021

Saturday 27 November 2021

Around 11 am we leave for the Rotterdam Central Railway Station. There we take the IC Direct from 11.26 to Amsterdam Airport Schiphol. At Schiphol we drop off our luggage and go to the KLM Crown lounge, for which we have made a reservation. We have lunch there and then go to the gate. Our priority tickets allow us to board ahead of the rest. The flight runs smoothly and we arrive at Rome Fiumicino at 4.25 pm. At the airport we have to walk a long way to the baggage claim and the exit. Then another 10 minutes to the train station. We buy tickets from the machine and the train is ready for departure. After half an hour we arrive at Roma Termini station. From there we take the metro to Spagna station, from where it is a 5 minute walk to the Airbnb. We are met by Simone, our landlord. He explains things and leaves. We go shopping at the Carrefour express convenience store around the corner. Then we rest before having dinner at La Buca di Ripetta. An excellent restaurant nearby.

Weather: in Rome dry until 9pm. 12^oC/54^oF

Sunday 28 November 2021

We have coffee nearby and then walk to the Spanish steps. These stairs were built in the 18th century to make the Trinita dei Monti church more accessible. Especially in summer they are very popular with tourists and young people to sit on. It's not the type of weather for that now. In the square in front of the stairs, Piazza di Spagna, the Fontana della Barcaccia attracts attention. This Bernini design took a beating in 2015, when Feyenoord hooligans rioted in Rome. The fountain has since been restored (with a Dutch donation). We go up the stairs and walk to the Galleria Borghese, for which we have made reservations at 10 o'clock. It is a palace of Scipione Borghese dating back from the 17th century, where the cardinal from the Borghese family housed his fantastic art collection. We did know where to look first: so much collected and ordered art is exhibited here. The palace is a work of art in itself. There are works by Bernini, Caravaggio, Rafael and many others. After the museum visit we take the bus to Piazza del Popolo and drink coffee outdoors at Rosati's. We go back to the apartment, after which we have lunch at Buccone. A wine bar serving food. It is tasty, but also very expensive.

Then we walk to the Piazza Navona. This is a beautiful square with the Fountain of the Four Rivers (Bernini) and the church of its Bernini's rival Boromini. The piazza is oval-shaped because the buildings follow the lines of a stadium that stood here in the first century under Emperor Domitian. We drink coffee ("only" 6 euros) at a touristy side walk café.

Then we take the bus to Piazza Venezia. We want to go up the Vittoriano, but first take the wrong stairs. It leads to a church, the Santa Maria Aracoeli. Also nice, but not our goal. Down again and then around the corner is the entrance to the monument. Completed in 1885 (consecrated in 1911), the monument symbolizes Italian unity, which was achieved in 1868 with the foundation of the Italian kingdom under Vittorio Emanuele II. Here too,  we have to show the Green Pass (QR code of the Corona vaccination certificate), although everything is in the open air. At the top of the first staircase is the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier (1st World War) with eternal flame and guard of honour, and above it is a gigantic equestrian statue of the king. We go up some more stairs to the elevator. There we buy a ticket (12 euros) and then go up to the viewing platform. The view is beautiful with the setting sun. We have a view of the entire city center and in particular the Capitol, the Roman Forum and the Coloseum. In the distance we see the dome of St. Peter's Basilica. Back down we take the bus home.

In the evening we eat at Pizzeria Emma in the old center of Rome. The Roman-style pizzas (thin and crispier than the Neapolitan version) are delicious and so is the Valpolicella wine. We take the bus back to Largo Chighi and walk from there back to the apartment.

Weather: a little rain in the morning, then dry. 12^oC/54^oF. Some sun in the afternoon

Monday 29 November 2021

We get up early as we have tickets for 8.30am to enter the Vatican Museums. We are well on time (20 minutes early) and are in 10th place from the top of the line. We are checked for our Green Pass and body temperature and the luggage is scanned. Then we store the backpack and the exploration of the museums can begin. We do skip a few things, otherwise it's really too much. We see the Locoon at the ancient statues. This is a remarkably beautiful image of the priest who, according to Homer, warned the Trojans against the Trojan Horse. It was excavated in 1506. Then we walk through the map gallery (Galleria delle Carte Geografiche). This was made for Pope Gregory XIII (the one of the calendar). The maps show all regions of Italy, islands in the Mediterranean and the papal possessions in France. Through the hall of the Immaculate Conception we enter the Rafael rooms (Stanze di Rafaello). Those are beautiful. It begins with the Stanze di Constatino with a mural depicting battles by Emperor Constantine the Great, the first Christian Roman emperor. Then follows Heliodorus's room with the Chasing of Heliodorus from the Temple. The highlight is the Stanza della Signatura with The School of Athena. On this Raphael depicted most of the philosophers of ancient Greece, such as Plato, Aristotle, Diogenes, Socrates and Herclitius. For some, Rafael has relied on contemporaries such as Leonardo da Vinci and Michelangelo as models for the faces. Rafael painted these spaces between 1508 and 1514 at the behest of Pope Julius II, who also determined the themes. Then there are some rooms with modern art, including Matisse, Dalí and others. Of course the Sistine Chapel follows, which is breathtaking. Completed in 1483 under Pope Sixtus IV, but decorated by Michelangelo under Julius II, you can admire one masterpiece after another in this chapel. The ceiling paintings in particular are beautiful, including the Creation of light, Adam and Eve. The chapel is the only room where you are not allowed to take pictures and also the only one where it is quite busy. Because of the early hour, we avoided most of the crowds. Finally, via the Scala Bramante, we reach the exit again.
We then go to St. Peter's. We have to go through a baggage scan again and the Green Pass is checked. Then inside. The space is again overwhelming. The statues, the chapels: everything is impressive. Of course Michelangelo's Pietà, but also Peter's chair, the canopy above Peter's tomb. Below the church are the tombs of the Popes. That is less exciting, but of course very important for believers. After the visit to St Peter, we take the metro back to Spagna station. There I take a Supli, a Roman snack of rice, tomatoes and cheese, breaded and deep-fried as a croquette. Erik takes a slice of pizza, pizza al taglio. We rest in the apartment and eat a sandwich.

In the afternoon we walk to the Pantheon. This former temple dates back to the 2nd century AD. It was great that people were already able to build such a dome without reinforcement. The dome is 43 meters (141ft) in diameter and equally high. The eye of the dome is over 7 meters (23ft) in diameter. Rafael, but also Vittorio Emanuele II are buried in the church. We have another coffee in a coffee house and walk back.
Erik cooks our dinner in the apartment. After dinner we go to the Trevi Fountains. They are very beautiful at night. It is still quite busy with tourists. The surrounding area of the fountains is terrible with many tourist restaurants, with touts trying to talk you inside. We take the metro to Flaminio to have a cocktail at Rosati's in Piazza del Popolo. That's a bit disappointing. It is very quiet and not all the staff are on their toes.

Weather: 8^oC/46^oF. Showers, but mostly dry

Tuesday 30 November 2021

We drink coffee near the apartment and then take the metro to Termini. There we change to line B to EUR Magliana. There we change again to the line to Lido. We get off at Ostia Antica and from there it is a few minutes' walk to the excavations of the former port of Rome. Ostia was founded six centuries before Christ as a port. Later, the coastline shifted and Ostia fell into disrepair. The ruins have been neglected for centuries, but can now be visited daily. It is very quiet there. We have to have our temperature checked again and the Green Pass, but then we can go inside. Most of the buildings lie along the central axis, the Decumanus Maximus. In front of the city gate we see tombs. Past the city gate remains of warehouses and also the theater, which could seat 4,000 people. We see many temples until we come to the forum where there is a large temple dedicated to Jupiter. There are also multistorey houses. The weather is friendly and the sun shines beautifully over the ruins. The cafeteria is unfortunately closed, but there is a vending machine, which produces acceptable coffee. We walk back the same way as we came and take the metro back to our apartment. In the afternoon we take the bus to the piazza Torre Argentina. Here is a large archaeological site in the middle of the square, with remains of temples. The location also acts as a shelter for stray cats. We continue to the Jewish quarter, the Ghetto. It's not very big, but it still has many Jewish, kosher restaurants and a very large synagogue. From there we walk past the Teatro Marcello, from the time of Emperor Augustus. It is not in use but the exterior is very reminiscent of a small version of the Coloseum. Then we cross the bridge to the island in the Tiber. This is where Rome must have originated, on a ford of the Tiber. The island is very small and half is occupied by a hospital Fatebenefratelli, which was founded in 1585, but is still in use. Its origins go back to a shelter for beggars and the sick dedicated to Saint Bartholomew before the year 1000. The hospital is now run by the St. John the Knights Templar. We have a drink in a bar and then take the bus back.
In the evening we have dinner at Imágo on the sixth floor of the Hassler hotel. We walk up the Spanish steps. The hotel is at the top of the stairs. We have a table by the window and enjoy the beautiful view. We take the 6-course menu, which starts with a whole collection of amuse-bouche. The wines are all top notch and go well with the dishes. Despite the modest portions and glasses, we get pretty full from all these treats. A selection of sweets follows with the coffee.

Weather: sunny and cold. 8^oC/46^oF

Wednesday 1 December 2021

We we have coffee nearby  again. Then we take the bus to the Campo di Fiori, the fresh food market in the old historic center of Rome. It is a short walk from the bus stop. It is relatively quiet on the market, which is partly still building up. We are invited from all sides to taste and buy the herbs, fruits, cheeses and olive oils. I had thought to go to the Palazzo Massimo after the market, but that is closed until 2 pm. The same goes for the Palazzo Altemps. We drink coffee in a bar. It has started to rain by now. The new plan is the Domus Aurea, the ruins of Emperor Nero's palace. That's kind of hard to find near the Coloseum. Google and Apple Maps let us down here. We finally find it, after some wandering. Once there, it appears that the Domus cannot be visited today. Only an exhibition. Tickets are only for sale online. We leave somewhat disappointed. We take the bus back to the apartment. We eat a sandwich, rest and set off again in the afternoon for the Palazzo Massimo. We take the metro to Repubblica and from there it is a short walk. The Palazzo Massimo is part of the Museo Nazionale Romano. The museum has a large collection of antique sculptures and statues. The ground floor contains mainly anonymous finds. The most beautiful are without a doubt the bronze statues of a resting boxer and one of an unknown Hellenic prince. Both found near Capitol Hill. The first floor would mainly contain emperor statues, but it has been closed for reasons that are unclear to us. The second floor (big climb) has especially beautiful mosaics and frescoes from Roman houses. Beautifully arranged.
After the museum we drink a beer on the Piazza Repubblica under the colonnade. After the beer – it has started pouring now – we take the metro back to the apartment.

In the evening we first go for a cocktail in the small, but cozy hotel bar of the Hotel d'Inghilterra. We order a negroni (Erik with prosecco instead of gin) and we get delicious snacks, including suppli. After this enjoyable aperitivo we go to Otello alla Concordia. Once the regular address of Fellini, it is still a reliable address for Roman specialities. I go for the bruchetta, followed by Fornara di Vitello e patate. Erik opts for a Roman Pizza (Pinsa) Diavolo with tomato Mozarella and spicy Salami, accompanied by a Rosso de Montalcino.

Weather: overcast and rain showers. 8^oC/46^oF

Thursday 2 December 2021

After coffee we take the metro to San Giovanni. Here, next to the city wall of Marcus Aurelius, is the church of San Giovanni in Laterano. The cathedral and bishop's church of Rome and thus the mother church of the Catholic Church. The church is constitutionally part of the Vatican. It is a beautiful basilica with a gilded ceiling that incorporates the arms of Pope Pius VI and those of his family Aldobrandini. There are beautiful frescoes, including one by Giotto of Pope Boniface VIII proclaiming the first holy year. In the main nave are marble statues of the 12 apostles. The canopy is also beautiful. Opposite the church is a building of the Holy Stairs. This is said to have been the stairs of Pontius Pilate's palace, down which Christ walked after his trial. We are only allowed to climb the stairs on our knees, but let's not do that. We can look at it instead. We continue to the San Clemente church. This is a 12th century basilica with a small courtyard. From the outside it looks a bit shabby, but inside we can see the richness of this dark Romanesque church. Here too, the ceiling is gilded with the coat of arms of Pope Clement XI and there are beautiful 12th century mosaics in the apse. [We missed the subterrean Mithra temple]

We take the metro from the Coloseum to Flaminio. There we change to the bus to the MAXXI, or the Museo Nazionale delle Arte del XXI secolo. The 2010 building was designed by Zaha Hadid and is dedicated to contemporary art. The building is beautiful and interesting in design. The art on display is of varying quality. Beautiful is a temporary exhibition by a Brazilian photographer (Sebastiao Salgado) about the Amazon region (nature and inhabitants). Other exhibitions, such as by Thomas Hirschborn, are less appealing to us. A lunch in the museum café is not possible, because it is colonized by  students, who have come here en masse to hang out, discuss and study while enjoying a single cup of coffee. We take the bus and metro to the apartment. We buy a pizza al taglio, a square piece of pizza, folded in half as a sandwich. This is popular street food (del Mercato) in Rome.

We would have liked to have gone to Trastevere, the neighborhood on the other side of the Tiber, in the afternoon, but it is raining unmercifully with lots of thunder. That's why we're staying indoors. In the evening it gets a little better and we walk to Vyta Enoteca. This is wine bar where you can also eat well. After Caprese and Bruchetta respectively, we take Cacio e Pepe – also typically Roman – an egg Tonnarelli with black pepper and Pecorino Romano DOP. "Everything from our own kitchen" they assure us.

Weather: overcast, heavy rain and thunderstorms in the afternoon. 8^oC/46^oF

Friday 3 December 2021

We wait for Simone, our landlord, who will meet us at 9.15 am before we leave. Since he's a little late, we don't have much time for a chat. We take the metro to Termini and buy a ticket for the Leonardo Express to Fiumicion Airport. Unfortunately we find out that there is a train strike today and a number of trains have been canceled. That is why we have to wait 45 minutes for the train, instead of 15 minutes. The train drives at a slow pace to the airport, where we arrive after half an hour at 10.50 am. We then have to walk for a while and then check in for the flight. Due to our Sky Priority status, we may queu up in the short line. Then follows the security check, another walk and we have lunch. We walk further to the gate, where we can immediately board the plane. The flight departs slightly earlier than announced. It's only half full. We land at Schiphol around 3 pm and because our suitcases are the first to roll off the baggage claim (priority), we have the train from 15.37 to Rotterdam Central. The Uber taxi is there within a minute and takes us home.

Weather: heavily cloudy 6 degrees in Rome. In Rotterdam it rains 8 degrees.

 

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