2014

Thursday 24 April 2014

We were not able to check-in for our flight with Cyprus Airways at home. One way or another, our booking was blocked for this . We booked through KLM , but KLM cannot solve it. At the airport, the check-in at the self-service terminal does not work either, so we have to line up in an old fashioned queue for an operator. Here all the difficult cases seem to have gathered collected, so it takes a very long time too. After more than a half hour’s wait we can go through passport control and head for lunch. The flight departs 20 minutes late at 13.45 to Larnaca. The flight goes smoothly . We land around 8pm local time at the airport of Larnaca . I walk down to the Sixtcounter to arrange the rental car, while Erik waits for the suitcases . We get a Renault Megane . Using the Garmin navigation and an Open Source Map downloaded from the Internet ( Garmin has no map of Cyprus ) , we arrive at the hotel Livadhiotis . Parking is possible on a rather dark lot one block away . We take a short break and then walk to the boulevard at the beach , eat a small snack and drink a beer. We then wrap up for the day with a drink on the terrace of the hotel bar Blu .

Weather: Larnaca 24 ° C

Friday 25 April 2014

After breakfast we walk into town and have a cup of cappuccino on a terrace . Then we walk to the Cytamobile/Vodafone store and buy a sim card for mobile internet . A SIM from competitor MTNwould probably have been better, because the coverage is much better than Cytamobile’s . We walk along the promenade to visit the fortress . Once built by crusaders , later used by the Turks , and finally as a prison and place of execution by the British. Now it is a museum with a nice view . Next we walk to the great mosque next door, which used to be on the edge of the former Turkish quarter . The mosque is being renovated and unfortunately not open to visitors . We continue to the Lazarus church next to our hotel . Here the remains of Saint Lazarus were kept. The tomb under the church is now very empty . We check out and drive to the Halan Halan Sultan Tekke Mosque on the edge of the salt lake west of Larnaca . This mosque is dedicated to the wet nurse of Muhammad , who came here with Arab troops and unfortunately fell off her mule and died . Her tomb has a central place in the mosque . The mosque is beautifully situated on the shores of the salt lake with views of the city . In in summer pink flamingos gather, but they have not come yet. We drive to the monastery of St Stavrovouni . This monastery is located on a mountain top. It turns out that the monastery , which is accessible only to men , is closed from 12 to 3pm . We arrive there at 12.20uur and we do not want to wait that long . We drive towards Limassol ( Lemesos ) , and have lunch in a backstreet restaurant near Kofinou . After lunch we drive to Lofou in the mountains north of Limassol , to our studio called Agrovino. Lofou is a rather secluded historic village where Violaris Costas and his family has converted a couple of village dwellings into studios. In addition to the studios , the family also runs a tavern , a cafeteria and a shop . The studio , we have booked is still occupied and we have to stay a night at another house , which unfortunately has a narrow and short double bed. We get a thousand apologies and a complimentary drink . Tomorrow we will be moved . We take a rest and a drink in the tavern. Then we drive to Omodos, a tourist attraction in the wine region. It is a quaint town with lots of wine sellers and tourist shops . In the middle we find a former monastery , which now serves as a (free access ) museum . We sit down on a terrace in the center of the village and have a drink . Then we look at the museum and the former Minster . There are huge swallow nests under the eaves. We drive along winding mountain roads back to Lofou .  

In the evening we have dinner in the tavern . I have a chicken Souvlaki and Erik a moussaka . It could not have been more Greek.  

Weather: Sunny 35 ° C

 

Saturday 26 April 2014

We have breakfast in the tavern and pack our stuff because we are today we will be moved to the room we had actually booked . After breakfast we drive to the Troodos Mountains to the hamlet of Foini . According to the Rough Guide a nice village famous for its pottery . The village looks very nice, but is quite dead . The pottery workshop is closed , just like the pottery museum . Then on to Troodos , where we have lunch. Troodos is a tourist hub in the mountains and a starting point for various hikes . Troodos is located near Mount Olympus, the highest peak in Cyprus .  

After lunch we drive to the Kykkos monastery . This is the wealthiest monastery in Cyprus. All the buildings date from after the fire in 1823 , but the murals and mosaics are unsurpassed. Unfortunately, we can not take pictures inside the monastery’s chapel where the icon of Mary is hanging, which the monastery is so famous for . The icon has survived all the fires of the monastery . Unfortunately, it is covered up by a piece of cloth . Monks are busy polishing the chandeliers and the frames of the icons . They sharply berate visitors who do not comply with the dress code . You have to take your hat or cap off in the church and bare legs and arms must be covered . For this capes are available . The church is very richly decorated with gold leaf and many icons . The first president of the Republic of Cyprus , Archbishop Makarios III ( ( 1913-77 ) began his ecclesiastical career here as a monk in 1926 . He is buried a few miles from the monastery of Kykkos. We also visit the museum. Here we even have to hand over our cameras. The museum’s rooms are new and nicely decorated with numerous religious objects such as icons , chasubles , monstrances and much more. The monastery itself is also wonderful with colonnades, balconies and many frescoes and mosaics .

After the visit we have a drink at a nearby terrace . Then we drive to the monastery of Saint Ioannis Lampadistis in the mountain village of Kalopanagiotis . It is a long and strenuous ride on winding mountain roads . It is a 9th century monastery with beautiful and well-preserved frescoes with scenes from the life of Christ . A monk oversees the visitors who can enter for free . The monastery is very small , but much more authentic than that of Kykkos . It has now become half past five and we decide to drive back to Lofou .  

In the evening we have dinner at the Tavern of Agrovino .  

Weather: sunny 23 degrees

Sunday 27 April 2014

This morning the Violaris family is in turmoil , because today they are expecting 100 guests for a baptism of the youngest member of the family. After breakfast we leave before the festivities get going . We drive on small roads before joining the A1 motorway to Paphos . First we pay a short visit to the birthplace of Aphrodite . Locally it is known as Petra tou Romiou ( Rock of the Greek) . Aphrodite came ashore east of Paphos . Her father Uranus 's testicles were cut off by his son Kronos and thrown into the sea . We now see a few big rocks , where the sea around it foams . The goddess was born from the foam. Far above the holy place on top of a mountain we find a restaurant with panoramic views , where we drink coffee . After we watched the rocks at a  closer range we drive on to Paphos . We drive directly to the archaeological excavations of Roman mosaics, which are close to the at the fishing port on the coast . Passing the harbor we have to run the gauntlet of the runners who want to talk us into a cruise with a glass bottom boat. We head straight to the entrance of the site. For 4.50 euros, we can enter the extensive grounds . There is much left standing, but there are beautiful mosaic floors that have been uncovered. The houses have names like House of Theseus and House of Dionysus , but that refers to the figures in the mosaics can be seen . Via bridges we get a top down view of the floors . Some locations are roofed or there is even a building built around it . There is also a Roman amphitheater . It is not too busy and we take our time seeing all the sights . The sea breeze is very welcome in this area without much shelter . After the tour we have lunch at Hondros restaurant (est. 1957) . Uncomplicated food following a familiar Greek recipe (lots of grilled meats , salads , etc. ) .

After lunch , we go and search for the covered market , but it is closed on Sundays. Next we go on to the town of Polis , a 30 minute drive north of Paphos . It is well touted as a peaceful alternative to Pafos , but it is rather disappointing . We drink a coffee and then go on to Latchi , a fishing village a few minutes to the west . It's fun to see , or at least the area around the marina. We have a drink on a terrace and drive back to Lofou . It takes a good 1.5 hours. When we come back in Lofou , the last of the party guests on the point of leaving , and peace returns to the village . We eat at the tavern later in the evening.  

Weather: 23 degrees, sunny

  

Monday 28 April 2014

After breakfast , which again begins as late as 9 am, we drive to ancient Kourion, an excavation west of Limassol ( Lemesos ). The history of this settlement dates back to the 14th century BC . There is a reconstructed amphitheater from the 3rd century . Alse the foundations are uncovered of an early Christian basilica (4th century) and a number of Roman villas dating from the 3rd century. Most have beautiful mosaic floors depicting for example gladiators.  

After visiting the site, we go to Limassol . It is 20 kms away. We drive to a car park near the Carob Mill Museum and the Castle Museum . This is a fine example of urban renovation . In the former renovated Carob mill a number of glitzy restaurants have been opened. We have lunch at Karatello. On a list , you can tick a number of mezze of your taste . After lunch we walk to the covered market , but it is partly undergoing renovation . The fish and meat traders have their already packed up and left for the day. The Mosque of Limassol looks quite nice from the outside , but inside it is not very memorable. Before the division of Cyprus in 1974 Limassol had a large and vibrant Turkish community . There is not much left of it . The Turkish inhabitants have left for the north in droves during the hostilities following the Turkish invasion.

We drive to Govener 's beach . That's another 17km east of Limassol . We sit down on a lawn at a restaurant on the beach and make use of the sun loungers and parasols . We enjoy the sunshine and tranquility . After a few hours we drive back to Lofou . In the Violaris tavern the old boss and his wife are there only ones there tonight . Therefore , the menu is limited. If everyone has been served his dinner, the boss starts playing his bouzouki and singing a number of very recognizable Greek classics. He goes on for a little too long , but it is entertaining nonetheless.

Weather: 25 degrees and sunny

 

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