Saturday 29 November 2008
We get up around 5.30am and the door
behind us at 6.15. We take the car to Rotterdam
Airport. Our VLM
flight leaves half an hour late due to fog in London. When we arrive in
London visibility is still limited and the pilot tells us that he is not sure
whether a landing is possible at the first attempt. The alternative is circling
around London for an hour or so. Thankfully the fog clears just enough for us to
land at the first go. We arrive about 30 minutes behind schedule at London City
Airport. This relatively small airport is close to the business centres
of Eastern Londen. We take the Docklands Light Railway (DLR)
that connects to the underground which in turn brings us to our accommodation in
Belgravia. Through the Visit Britain website we have bought a smart travel
card for greater London, the Oyster
Card. It has £20 balance for travel loaded on it and it is good for travel
on all busses, trams and undergrounds. You are never charged more than the value
of a day pass. The system works quicker than the old paper cards with magnetic
stripe, which are still in use. Whenever the £20 are used you can easily top it
up with a minimum of £5 at a machine. Natives can do it automatically. Part of
the underground network is out of service because of maintenance work during the
weekend. We have to change once extra. We arrive at the Bed
& Breakfast Belgravia around 9am. We can check in, but the room is not
ready for an hour yet. We first go out for coffee at an Italian delicatessen La
Bottega, where we are served by a very attractive waiter. After the coffee
we walk within 5 minutes to Buckingham
Palace, where we take some pictures of the guards, who are dressed in
their dull and grey winter outfit, unfortunately. The palace dates back to 1702
and started life as the London residence for the Duke of Buckingham. In 1762 it
came into the hands of the royal family and was converted and restyled in the
1820s and once more in 1913. Since 1837 it is the royal residence in London. On
the outside is it rather bland and dull. We walk along the Mall and take
pictures of the guards outside the entrance to Clarence House and St James's palace,
the residences of Prince Charles and Princess Anne respectively. St James's
palace was the royal residence from 1698 until Queen Victoria came to power and
moved to Buckingham Palace. Here you can come up real close to the guards. We
continue for a bit and take a left into Marlborough Road passing the
Royal Chapel, once built for the Spanish kid bride of Charles I and later
finished for his French wife Marie Henriette. We also pass the Art Nouveau monument
for Queen Alexandra, de Danish wife of
Edward
VII. Its designer Gilbert also created Eros on Piccadilly Circus. We get to Pall Mall,
lined with many classical Gentlemen Clubs. A bit later we turn left towards St
James's Square. A nice and posh London square, with a couple of foreign
embassies and high commissions and the address for the London Library.
This private library is open to members only. It was founded by Thomas Carlyle in 1841,
because he was tired of waiting for hours for books he ordered from the British Library,
which was not allowed to take home - which he often did anyway. We continue to Waterloo Place,
where we see the Crimean War monument. Of course it includes a statue of Florence Nightingale,
sporting an oil lamp, which helped her finding the wounded on the battle fields
during the Crimean War (1853-56). As a proud and professional nurse Erik has to
have his picture taken with her. A bit further down is the statue of Frederick, Duke of York
high up on a column, erected a few years before the much more famous one for
Nelson on Trafalgar Square. We go down the stairs
back to the Mall, cross it and walk towards Horse Guards Parade and Whitehall. Whitehall is
the home of the Cabinet Office and support the Cabinet and the Prime Minister (Brown).
The building is guarded by Horse Guards. The changing of the guard is in
progress. Via Whitehall we walk to Trafalgar Square with the
before mentioned Nelson's Column. The admiral was killed during the naval battle
near Trafalgar against a French/Spanish fleet in in 1805. Around the
square are the National
Gallery and St
Martin in the Fields, the parish church for the royal family. From here we
take the underground to Blackfriars. We cross Blackfriars bridge across the
river Thames go for lunch in the OXO
Tower Brasserie run by Harvey Nichols (a department store elswhere in
London). The OXO
tower is part of a former power station, that was converted in the
1930s into a meat packing plant by Liebig, also known for the OXO stock cubes. A
local statute against advertising on buildings was circumvented by integrating
the letters of the brand name into the windows and lighting it from within. The
building today houses an information centre, shops, work shops, apartments and a
restaurant, brasserie and bar on the top floor. We take an aperitif in the bar
before we sit down for lunch and the breath taking view of the city and the
river. The food is good: Thai pumpkin soup, followed by sea bass. After
lunch we go back to the B&B. We have a short break before get going again to
Covent
Garden to do some shopping. It is Saturday afternoon, so it is very
crowded. The Christmas decorations are out already and we even see some
Christmas trees. After the shopping we have a drink at Ku
Bar in Lisle Sreet in Chinatown. The back to the hotel and quickly on
to our restaurant for tonight. We take the underground to
Fulham Broadway from where it is quite a slog to Chutney Marie on King's Road.
We were a bit too optimistic about that. Chutney
Mary
is a stylish Indian restaurant. The food is delicious. After dinner we make our
way to Soho, where to visit a number of (gay) pubs.
Weather: cold 5 degrees and dry
Sunday 30 November 2009
We have breakfast in the B&B.
Breakfast is well prepared with all thinkable cooked options available, as well
as continental things. We take the underground to
Westminster. We cross Westminster Bridge towards the London
Eye, the giant Ferris wheel dominating the skyline since the
beginning of the new millennium. We have pre-booked our tickets on line. You
have to book for a specific time slot. This is how they control the number of
people showing up at any one time. We have booked for a "flight"
around 10.30am. Because British Airways runs the Ferris Wheel everything is
referred to in aviation slang. We are way too early so we go for a coffee in the
Marriott Hotel occupying the western part of the former County Hall. This is
where the Greater London Council was based between 1933 and 1986 when it was
abolished by Margareth Thatcher, in order to break the Labour Party's hold on
London's local government. Now the building houses, besides the hotel, the
London Aquarium, an amusement hall and a small art gallery devoted to Salvador
Dalí. We
collect our tickets at the counter and report to check in around half pas
ten. In the Ferris wheel, designed by David Marks and Julie Barfield,
are 32
capsules. Those capsules can hold a maximum of 25 people. The wheel runs at a
constant low speed and a full spin lasts a little over 30 minutes. Beside normal
flights you can also book a
Champagne flight with luxury catering. The view is, despite the low cloud, quite
good. We see a lot of Londen and can distinguish most of the eye catching
buildings.
After our flight we buy the
automatically take picture, key ring and frigdge magnet. We walk to Waterloo
Station and take the underground from there to the East End. We get out at Liverpool Street and walk to Petticoat
Lane. In this street Huguenots started selling lady's underwear in the
18th century and gave the street its name. In 1830 the street name was changed
to
Middlesex Street in order to avoid the mentioning of something taboo like
underwear. The old name stuck, however. In the 19th century the street became
the centre of Jewish East London. These days it is the spot to shop for cheap
clothing on a Sunday. Most stalls are run by Bengals and Africans. We walk on
and via Bell Lane and Brushfield Street we arrive at the old Spittalfield
Market. Originally this was the wholesale fruit market for London, but
those activities moved away from here in 1981. In the oldest part of the
market,dating back to 1893, there is still a lively daily market. On Sundays it
is very diverse. We find everything from biological food to clothes and
antiques, but it is also possible to have a head massage. We walk past Christ
Church from 1729. Despite a multi million conservation it still looks a bit
sad. We continue through
Fournier Street, where once the Huguenots had their weaving shops. The large
windows were meant to let in enough light so that the fabrics could be inspected
more easily by buyers. We get to Brick Lane. This was the location for a
quite a number of kilns, hence the name. It is now the artery of what is being
marketed as Bangla Town. The area is taken over by Bengal
immigrants, who have opened up their shops and restaurants here. We have lunch
at Café Naz on Brick
Lane. At Naz we find contemporary Bengal cuisine. Sunday afternoons they serve a
Bengal buffet lunch. As much as you like for only £9,95 per head. It is
very good. We walk up Brick Lane passing the Jamme Masjid, the big mosque for
Bengal East London. The building started out as a
Protestant Church for the Huguenots in 1743. In 1809
it became a methodist chapel until it was converted into a ultra-orthodox synagogue
in 1897. Finally the Bengal muslims took over in 1976. A bit further up we pass
the buildings of the former Old Truman Brewery. It is now a mulitimedia art
centre and a busy market hall with lots of food stalls from various countries.
Beyond the rail overpass, the Brick Lane street market takes over, mainly in the
side streets. Almost everything is sold here. We have coffee at Chalounge
a very relaxed lounge for coffee and cakes.
We take the bus until Tottenham Court Road
and change to the underground that takes us to Westminster station. From there
we walk to the Cabinet War Rooms.
The entrance
is on Horse Guards Road on the park side of a government office block.
During the second world war the British government built underground bunker
shelters to conduct state affairs and lead the war effort during the Blitz - the
bombing of the city by the German Airforce. The rooms are now part of the Imperial War Museum.
It is impressive to see how the government and the army leadership managed the
country from underground. The rooms are seen as they were left behind in 1945.
With the help of an audio tour (included in the £12 entry fee) we go round the
complex. Most striking are the cabinet meeting room, the secret phone booth for
Churchill to contact Roosevelt, the map room and the private quarters of
Churchill and his close associates.
Churchill spent as little time possible underground. He preferred watching the
air battle of Britain from the roof top of Whitehall. Linked to the War Rooms is
the Churchill museum, completely devoted to the life and times of the
great statesman. Modern technology makes it possible to present the day to day
life of Churchill in text, pictures and film. By touching the screens we can
zoom in on events of specific days, including documents and films. Very
impressive.
Tired yet satisfied we return to our
B&B. At night we take a taxi to Soho Square
for cocktails at
The Edge, a trendy cocktail bar
and lounge. After that we stroll to Arbutus
a restaurant sporting 1 michelinster in Frith Street, 150 metres further down.
We eat very well (Pappardelle with veal ragu, followed by rabbit with Cottage
Pie and Crême Brûllee for desert) and enjoy the nice New Zealand wine (Pinot Noir Forest
Estate 2006). After the cullinary delights we take a taxi back to the B&B.
The driver of the private hire car, the restaurant has ordered for us, is not
completely familliar with the directions to our accommodation. We have to guide
into the right direction (!)
Weer: grey start and drizzle. Dry
afternoon. 5 degrees
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