Wednesday 3 September 2008

Rotterdam - Girona - Figueres: 4 hours underway

We drive in our own car to Rotterdam Airport. We get there by nine am. We park on P3 for long stay parking. We have already checked on  the Transavia website and we only have drop of our luggage. We get a  new boarding card at the drop off counter (why remains a mystery) before can go to the cafeteria for a cup with a view on the landing platform. Our plane, a Boeing 737 arrives from Paris. Boarding starts at 10.10 and we take off 15 minutes ahead of schedule to Girona. We land there around 12.30pm. We have to wait quite some time for the luggage, so I take care of the car rental formalities while Erik waits for the bags to arrive. We get our car from  Goldcar, who represent Sixt here. We get a Ford Mondeo. I collect the car from the multistory car park then pick up Erik at the terminal building, who has collected the bags. We drive to Figueres, about 30 minutes from Girona. We have lunch at restaurant Can Punyetes, a typical Catalan affair. We do not notice anything from the damage cause by the  fire, that burned here last February. The menu is entirely in Catalan, which is not entirely comprehensible. We ask for the Spanish translation. Simple yet filling meal, according to a traditional Catalan recipe. After lunch we walk to the Teatre Museu Dali. A fanciful building, that is actually a converted theatre. Dalí was born  in Figueres in 1904 and held his first exhibitions here at the age of 14. The museum opened for the first time in 1974. It is an odd construction. Egg figures don the roof's edge and naked figurines line the semicircular court in front of the former stage.  On the stage we see a gigantic portrait of his wife Gala's bosom. If you watch it with a different perspective it turns out to be the face of Abraham Lincoln. The museum is not a collection of Dali's top works - those are spread over the world - but it does offer an overview of his talents: painting, sculpture and jewelry. Under building is a crypt where the artist, who returned to his native town at the end of his life, was buried in 1989. After the visit of this fascinating museum we drive to Cardona, where we will stay in the Parador. We get there by 6pm. The Parador of Cardona is located in a 9th century fortress with a defensive tower dating back to the 2nd century and includes a 11th century chapel. The complex lies strategically on a hill top overlooking the wide surroundings. We have a standard room with a view to the inner courtyard. We have cava (Catalan sparkling wine) in the bar before our dinner in the restaurant. 

Weather 29°C/84°F few clouds with sunny spells

Thursday 4 September 2008

Cardona - Queralbs - Cardona: 180km / 112 mi

The day starts off cloudy. After breakfast we drive via beautiful but winding roads through deep valleys to Queralbs in the Freser valley in the Pyrenees. Here we take the zipper train or Cremellera to Nuria. It is a modern train that slowly climbs upwards through the beauftiful mountain landscape offering breath taking views of ravines and mountain tops. At the end of the line, about 2,000m (6,000ft) above the sea, we arrive at the hideously ugly pilgrim's destination of Nuria, where an effigy of the holy Virgin with child was discovered in the 11th century. The statue is on display in  the chapel and is worshiped particularly by young women. The presence of this Virgin promises them a large number of children. After a small snack in the self service cafeteria we start off for a down hill hike back to Queralbs, about 700m (2,100ft) lower. This 8km (5mi) trek is supposed to take 2,5 hours. The descent is magnificent. The track is narrow and takes over large rocks and along steep ravines. At regular intervals we see the zipper train going up or down the track. On our hike we meet some individual walkers, but also a troop of Spanish soldiers - who have to do the hike up and down in a day with full pack and gun - and group of school children going up.  The hike  is not too difficult and well marked (there are no side tracks anyway) and is part of the long distance GR 11 track. Back in Queralbs we get the car and drive to Ripoll, where we get a drink and a snack. Then we drive to Cardona following the main roads via Vic. 

We dine in the Parador. The food is delicious (salmon with  pasta for Erik and lamb chops for me).

Weather: cloudy with sunny spells. Morning 19ºC/66ºF . Afternoon 29ºC/84ºF.

Friday 5 September 2008

Cardona - La Seu d'Urgell - Andorra - Cardona: 222km / 139mi

After breakfast we drive in the direction of La Seu d'Urguell. We first stop in Solsono, for coffee and cake. We look around in the walled town centre. There is weekly market going on. We continue our drive for an hour until we reach  La Seu d'Urguell. This medieval town of 12,000 inhabitants has a large cathedral. The biship of La Seu is one of two co-princes of nearby Andorra. The other one is the French president. The bishopric was founded in 820. A row over land rights in the 13th century with the French Counts of Foix eventually led to the independence of Andorra, more about that later. The town owes its name to the Cathedral (Seu), located in the middle of the old town. We walk to the cathedral and visit (combi-ticket) the beautiful cloisters, the museum (many medieval virgins and  a mosarabic illustrated manuscript from the 10th century, a Beatus) and finally the simple Romanesque church from the 12th century. The city has no other real sights than the old than itself.   

Na the visit we drive on to Andorra, that is about 10km further up the road. At the border we see a long line of cars waiting to enter Spain. We can drive into the Prinicipat d'Andorra after hopping over a few nasty speed ramps. The principality was founded in 1278 after the bishop of La Seu and the count of Foix had settled their dispute under pressure by the pope, giving the area autonomy under shared sovereignty. The co-principal title of the counts was in the end handed to the French president. The co-princes appointed regents, who showed little interest in the principality's affairs. The country was ruled by the General Council of the Valleys, with 7 appointed representatives from each community in the valleys. In 1993 a referendum was held deciding a democratic constitution. Since then elections for the council are held among the 10,000 citizens. In total 60,000 people live in Andorra. It is 450km² in size. The country held itself outside all European conflicts which turned out to be very lucrative, especially during World War II. After the war the country specialised in tax free trade in alcoholic beverages, tobacco and electronics. 

We think we have arrived in the capital and park our car in car park. But soon we learn that we are in a suburb. We take the car out again and drive on to Andorra La Vella. Here we look for a restaurant recommended by the Rough Guide called Mimin's, but it is closed during this very weekend. We then settle for a cafeteria, also in the old town. The old town is very small. The only sight is the council hall where the General Council meets. The rest of La Vella has been converted into a gigantic duty free mall. Lots of perfume, electronics, booze and cigarettes. After a while it gets too much. We buy two bottles of Lepanto (Spanish brandy) and drink a cup of coffee before we drive back to Spain. We are waved through the border controls by the Spanish customs. Andorra is not an EU member state. We arrive at the Parador around 5.15pm. Tonight we stay in the Cardona suite. This a luxury room with a large four poster bed, settee and Jacuzzi. Cava and fruit bowl are waiting for us. We enjoy it. We also have a nice view of the surrounding hills, including a salt mine. Dinner is special too. We get a six course diner with lots of delicacies. 

Weather: sunny. In Andorra around 24ºC/75ºFin Cardona 29ºC/84ºF.

Saturday 6 September 2008

Cardona - Montserrat - Barcelona: 100km / 62mi

Breakfast is served in our room. The staff appeared to have forgotten our order, because we had to remind them by calling reception. When it finally arrived it was excellent. Eggs, fresh juice, coffee, rolls, ham, cheese, sausage and jam. Lovely. We also get our requested newspaper. After breakfast we drive to the abbey of  Montserrat. In Montserrat we park at the Monastril de Montserrat train station and take the Cremallera or zipper train up to the abbey. With hindsight we would have been better of parking at the main Cremalera station, because not all trains continue to Monastril. It is however the station where connecting trains from Barcelona and Manresa arrive. The zipper train winds its way up the mountain. It is a single track and we have to wait a few times for on coming trains to pass us by. We are up there in less than 20 minutes. The abbey of Monserrat is a star attraction because of La Moreneta, the statue of the black virgin, which is kept here and was saved from the hands of the Mores in the 8th century. It surfaced again in 880. A chapel was specially built for it, which was in turn replaced in 976 by an abbey. The abbey is located at 1000 metres above the sea and the views are spectacular. Many miracles have been ascribed to the virgin. The complex is almost like a theme park complete with tourist trains, souvenir malls, cafeteria's and the like. Lots of day trippers come here, but also pilgrims and even wedding parties. It second only to Santiago de Compostella in holiness in all of Spain. Only the basilica of the Benedictine Abbey is open to the public. When we enter the church there is  a mass going on, so we choose to start with the audiovisual presentation. That offers nice pictures, but little background on the place. After the slideshow we go back to the basilica. For a look at the virgin we have to enter via a side entrance and queue up in a long line leading through a corridor behind the side chapels up two flights of stairs behind the altar and the choir. The line is long and take at least 30 minutes before we are eye to eye with La Moreneta.    The statue is kept behind fiberglass, but one hand sticks out through a hole and can be touched. The statue has blackened through the ages by the burning of candles. After this spectacle we take the Cremalera down to our car and drive to Barcelona in about 45 minutes. 

We stay at the heterofriendly Axel hotel in the Gayxample or the gay part of the Eixample district. This district north of Plaça Catalunya was built from 1859 according to a grid like plan by Ildefons Cerdà i Sunyer and become known as Esanche (in Spanish) - in Catalan, the Eixample - meaning extension. The streets are straight and wide and every intersection is square because the street corners are cut off. We have lunch in the Carrer Casanova and go out to Tibidabo mountain. We first take the metro to Av. Tibidabo station and then the traditional Tram Blau. That one rides only on weekends, on other days you have to take a bus. At the final stop we get out at  Plaça Dr. Adreu. There are a couple of nice outdoor café's here with views of the city, like the Mirablau. From here the funicular train leaves for the Tibidabo attraction park, where the view is even wider. You have to put up with the noise of the fun fair in the amusement park. The name of the mountain refers to a bible passage, in which the devil leads Jesus - after spending 40 days fasting in the desert - to a mountain top and promises him everything he sees from there: Haec omnia tibi dabo si dacens adoreberis me ("All of this I will give thee, if thou wilt fall down and worship me"). We look out, resist devilish temptations and return downtown.

At night we eat in Casa Calvet. The building (1899) is a creation of the famous Catalan architect Antoni Gaudí (1852-1926). It is one of his least striking creations in  Barcelona, but inside the typical modernista ornamentations are clearly visible. For this design Gaudi received a prize from the city council. It was originally designed and built for the textile mill owner Andreu Calvet, who lived here and had his offices here. The restaurant was opened here in 1994. Excellent restaurant with delicious dishes. Starter is vegetable canneloni with summer truffles and parmesan, followed by three times cooked rabbit in mustard sauce, garlic and vegetable panacea. Afters are good too (yoghurt cup with brandy toffee and guanaja chocolate foam). 

Weather: cloudy, and sometimes a bit of drizzle. 22 to 25ºC/ 71 to 77ºF

Sunday 7 September 2008

After breakfast in the hotel we walk to the Ramblas. We buy picture postcards and watch the people passing by. We have a coffee in front of the Santa Maria del Pi church in the old quarter of  Barri Gotic. At 10am we are ready for the guided tour around the mid 19th century Liceu theatre. The classical music theatre on the Ramblas was heavily damaged in a fire in 1994, but reopened in 1999 and is now - after the demolition of a few neighbouring buildings - bigger than ever. The grand  theatre room has been meticulously copied from the old one. The same goes for the club lounges of the  Cercle del Liceu. In the club's Rotunda lounge, 12 paintings by club member Ramon Casas are on display. Each painting, that was especially commissioned for this room in 1902 shows women and music. The club rooms are classic and modernist in style A new visitors lobby has been built in modern style. After an hour we have seen it all and we leave the guide with her poor English behind.  We cross the Ramblas and walk to the   Plaça Reial, where we have a drink. The square is full of tourists and post stamps collectors, who hold their weekly market. From the square we walk to the Seu or cathedral, who unfortunately is in scaffolding and then on to  Santa Maria del Mar kerk at the end of Carrer de Montcada in La Ribera district. This is a beautiful ornate  Catalan-Gothic church, for which work started in the 13th century under king Jaume II. The church was in those day on the coast line. We continue to the Mercat Santa Caterina in Sant Pere to have lunch there, but the market is closed. . 

In the afternoon we take bus #24 from Plaça Catalunya to the Parc Güell. This park was designed by Gaudi and commissioned by industrialist Güell, Gaudi's principal patron. It is second only to the Sagrada Familia church as his most famous work. It was supposed to become a lower income housing estate, but only a few of the houses were actually built. In 1922 it was opened up to the general public. The park is extremely busy today. The beautiful ceramic bench is full of tourists. We are a little disappointed, because in our memory from earlier visits this spot was much more idyllic. It probably was not a summer Sunday afternoon when we visited last. After a while a couple of tour groups leaves the place gets a little less crowded, but still there are lot of people about. We take the metro (after a 1200m walk) to the Eixample, to our  hotel. 

At night we have dinner at Tragaluz, close to the Passeig de Gracia and metro station Diagonal. The restaurant is nicely designed in a sort of glass house. The food is good and Mediterranean, but the pace of the waiting staff is very high. After dinner we take a taxi to the   Placa d' Espanya to watch the Font Magica, or the water organ. From the square we walk between the two identical bell towers on to the Avingunda de la Reina Maria Cristina. Left and right are exhibition buildings dating back to 1929. The avenue leads to the Palau Nacional, where the Font Magica is. After 9.30 there is a sound and light show with classical music and the fountain plays to the tune of the music. We take the metro back to the hotel. We go next door for a drink at Atame. 

Weather: sunny, 30ºC/ 86ºF.

Monday 8 September 2008

We have breakfast in the stylish breakfast room and take the car out of the city on to the motorway to Girona. Traffic is busy, but is flowing. The motorway takes us to Girona, but finding the hotel in the old part of town is a bit of a puzzle. All streets are one way and some are closed for all traffic. The old town is on the East bank of the river Onya and within the city walls. At one point I leave the car to find the hotel on foot. When I find it the hotel owner gives me a map with directions to a parking space nearby the hotel.  

The excellent Hotel Historic has six rooms and is located in a historic building. Virtually all sights are within the old town. We walk to the cathedral, which we visit extensively (audio guide). A ticket allows entry to the church, the cloisters and the museum.  It is a nice gothic church from the 14th century. It replaced and older church, which was founded - as legend has it - by Charlemagne himself. It is certain however that it occupies a spot once taken by the local mosque during the Moorish occupation. There are beautiful chapels and altars. In the museum a medieval tapestry is on display recounting the story of creation. 

After visiting the cathedral we walk into the old town to the former Jewish Quarter, the Call Jeu and have lunch at an Indian restaurant. After a bit of siesta we walk to the Banys Arabs. This bath house was built in 1194 by Moorish workmen and rebuilt in 1290 a few centuries after the Moorish rule had ended in Catalunya. These are the best kept Arab bath houses, beside those in Granada. In the 15th century they were closed down, but in 1929 they were restored by a group of modernist architects and opened up to the general public as a museum. The building has 3 rooms for different temperatures and a reception room.  We walk down the Carrer de la Força, once the central street through the Jewish quarter, the Call. Before the Jews were expelled from Spain in 1492 hundreds of Jews lived here. The were protected by the king at first, later the Jewish quarter became a ghetto, in which the Jews were locked in. We continue along the Ramblas Libertat and sit down at outside café. On the other bank of the river Onyar is the Plaça Independencia with lots of restaurants and café's. A couple of shopping streets run south from here with lots of clothing and other fashion items.  

When the sun goes down and becomes less hot we walk over the city walls around the old town. The view from here over the old town and surroundings is beautiful at the backdrop of the setting sun. The cathedral and the tower of the Sant Feliu church dominate the skyline. The Feliu tower was hit by lighting in 1581 and was never repaired. Only half of the church steeple remains. The city wall makes half a circle around the old town. The river is the western boundary. 

At night we have dinner at Boira on the Plaça Independencia. A reasonable place to eat.

Weather: sunny, 29ºC/ 84ºF

Tuesday 8 September 2008

After the somewhat disorganised breakfast we have a coffee in the old town, that has not really woken up yet at 9.30am. Around 10.30 we check out of the hotel and drive to the airport. Dropping off the car goes very fast and hassle free. Note that you have to pay for the fuel and get no refund for the fuel left in the tank when you return. After check in in for the flight we have to wait for a long time, because our aircraft is delayed. It arrives 13.20pm. We can board within 15 minutes and in the end we are only 15 minutes delayed when we land in Rotterdam. We take our car from the car park and drive back home.