Zafra - Mérida: 62 km

Wednesday 21 May 2003   

After an excellent breakfast we leave Zafra.  We drive North towards Mérida, where we arrive at the Nova Roma hotel in less than an hour. A modern, good but inconspicuous affair close to the centre. We start with coffee on the Plaza Mayor before we set out for sight seeing. The Plaza Mayor is large and surrounded by shopping arcades. On the square itself there are a number of outside café's and a big fountain. After the coffee we first have a look at the Roman theatre. We buy a combination-ticket valid for all Roman attractions in Mérida  (€7,20, instead of  €3,90 for each site) The Roman Theatre is very well kept and dates back to 15 BC. It is still being used, e.g. by the Classical Theatre Festival every July and August. Right now there is a musical performance for school groups sponsored by the regional parliament of Extremadura. The theatre has  great acoustics. Next to it is the Amphitheatre. This one has done worse through the centuries. In the ancient days gladiators fought each other or wild animals as entertainment for the citizens of Mérida. Across the street from both theatres are the remains of a Roman Villa. Part of the walls and tiled floors have been excavated. It gives a good impression of the lay out of a Roman Villa around the start of the first century AD.  The house was in use until the fourth century AD. It has a couple of beautiful mosaic floors. 

Then it is time for lunch and siesta. After the siesta we have a look at the Morería excavations close to the old Roman bridge. Remains of houses were found here from Roman, Visigoth and Moorish times. Here again we see a couple of very good mosaic floors. These treasures came to light when an office of the regional government was being built. The building was completed nonetheless, but it has been build on columns leaving the excavations visible for visitors. The Roman bridge of Mérida was completed in the first century AD, extended in the 17th century and restored during the 19th century. It is 792m long and has 60 arches. Until 1993 it was the main bridge crossing the Guadiana River when a new bridge was completed. 
At the top of the bridge is the Alcazaba, the Moorish fortress that controlled access to the city for centuries., 
We take some tapas at Casa Benito, a tiny bar with walls full of bull fighting  memorabilia. The old boss can always be found in front of the TV with a big cigar in his mouth, watching a bull fight on (pay-)tv. 
Later at night we eat reasonably well at Rufino's. 

Thursday 22 May 2003

Breakfast at Hotel Nova Roma is nothing to write home about. A bread roll with marmalade and - on request - with cheese. We start the day with visiting the Roman columbaria, showing the death rites of the Romans over the centuries. From there we walk to the  Casa Mitreo. This is also a large Roman Villa dating from the late 1st or early 2nd century AD. It is near remains connected to the Mitras cult, hence the name. It is a spacious mansion with - very interesting - underground bed rooms, which must have been very comfortable in summer. Here too, a number of (damaged) mosaic floors. We continue towards the Diana temple. The temple was incorporated in a family palace in the 17th century. From 1972 the temple was excavated. Research has proved that it is not a Diana temple at all, but one devoted to the Emperor's cult.  It is one of the oldest buildings of the city, the only religious building dating back to the early years of the 1st century AD. A bit further away is the so called Trajan archway. This archway was once - mistakenly so - considered to be a victory arch. It is probably a gateway to the city Forum. 

We drive to the Embalse de Cornalvo. This is a reservoir constructed by the Romans with a dam in the river. It has played a major role in the Mérida's water supply since the first century. It is about 18km outside the city. It's surroundings has been declared a National Park. We see birds of prey, storches and turtles. In the park it is very quiet. We see very few cars. From there we drive to the Embalse Proserpina, also a Roman reservoir, now a recreational area. The dams are 18 and 21 meters high respectively and were constructed late 1st and early 2nd century. 
Back in Mérida have lunch at the Parador and settle down for a siesta.
After the siesta walk into the city centre. We have tapas again at  Casa Benito. It is very hot today (over 30°C/86°F) and temperatures had not dropped by 7pm. We stay at Benito's outside tables till 8pm. Around nine we go and have dinner at Restaurante Nicolás. Fine food. Wide choice of regional dishes, like the Jamón serrano, the mountain ham. Only in the sierras of Extremadura the Iberian pig is bred. A half wild animal somewhere between wild boar and pig, that feeds itself on acorns. Serrano is not just any kind of ham. There is a classification system (Denominación de Origen) that is as advanced as the wine system. The best ham comes from the Dehesa-region. A few slices as appetizer costs as much or more than a main course. 

Mérida - Cáceres: 67 km

Frida 23 May 2003

After the simple breakfast we drive to Cáceres, about 60 km north. Cáceres is a busy town, with a walled old town. We stay at the Hotel Los Naranjos. A simple one star affair, but with all the necessary amenities (shower, toilet, TV and air) We walk to the Plaza Mayor just outside the old town walls. A large square with lots of bars with outside tables. We explore the old town. Cáceres has produced, despite it's remoteness from the sea, quite a number of Conquistadores, conquerors of South- and Central America. The family palaces or Solares are proudly shining in the old town. The facades are adorned with family coats of arms and many have towers. On the Plaza  Maria is the church with the same name, a renaissance church from the 16th century. A further on is the  Plaza San Jorge, with the Palacio Golfines Abajo. It was here where general Franco declared himself leader (caudillo) of Spain in 1936. On the Plaza de las Veletas, is the provincial museum. It's ethnographic part is in the Casa de las Valetas. Beneath this house are the remains of a moorish bath house (Ajibe). The house is connected by a bridge with the Casa de Caballos, which holds a fine art department with old, modern and contemporary art, among which some work by Miró, Picasso and Arroyo.
Back on the Plaza Mayor we have lunch under the arcades. Temperatures are rising to 36°C/99°F  and is about time for a siesta. After the siesta we have some tapas in the busy Calle Pintores. Now it has cooled down a bit we have mustered courage to continue our exploration of the old town. We walk through the traffic free streets and alleys, enjoying even more palaces. In one of them the Parador is based, the only hotel in the old town. Virtually all the roofs - even power masts - are occupied by nesting storches. At first we take pictures of them, but after a while we get used to them, even to their incessant rattling. 
At night we eat at " El Figon de Eustaquio" an excellent restaurant where enjoy a great duck à l'orange and a chateaubriand.

Saturday 24 May 2003

Breakfast is impossible in the hotel, so we have it across the street in a coffee shop. After that we drive to Trujillo, a good 50 km East of Cáceres. Trujillo is a small town on a hill in the shade of a castle. The castle has Moorish origins, but has been enlarged by later owners. In one of its towers is a chapel devoted to the patron saint of the town. The virgin stands in a window, with its back towards the worshippers overlooking the town. The views from the castle walls are stunning. It must have been a strategic site.  
In the middle of the town is the Plaza Mayor, a spacious square surrounded by churches and palaces. In the middle is the statue  Pizzaro, conqueror of Ecuador and Peru, also a son of Trujillo (1475). The statue was a gift by an American in 1929. The San Martin church on the square is worth a visit. The caretaker does her best to explain - in Spanish - what the churches characteristics are, like the choir, the altar and a balcony looking over the Plaza Mayor. 
We walk on passing the Santa Maria church, a monastery and the Parador of Trujillo, based in 16th century convent. Temperatures are ideal here in Trujillo: a mere 21°C/70°F. 
We have lunch in Meson La Troya. The lavish 15 euro menu (including wine) is fine. A sight in its own right is the very old owner, who, as a kind of monument is seated at the dining room's entrance. She cannot talk very well anymore and a sign explains the simplistic price structure (1 menu is €15, 2 menus €30 etc.). We have to pay her. The bar is wallpapered with photos of her in better times, side by side with Spanish celebrities who dined here in the past. 
We drive back to Càceres for a siesta. After that we walk into town for tapas on the Plaza San Juan. We are back well in time to watch the Eurovision Song Contest. The Spanish tv has an extensive preview called " Operación Eurovision" named after the spanish qualifying contests called  "Operación Triunfo". The Spanish entry called Beth from Suria in Catalunya is being interviewed all the time. The contest itself has very limited highlights. The stage is wonderful and so is our Dutch entry Esther Hart. But she receives very few points. Turkey wins. 
It was a sunny day, but not to warm - 23°C at the most.