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We leave home at 8.45 am and take the metro to Rotterdam Central. There
we take the InterCity Direct train service to Amsterdam Airport
Schiphol. Despite the fact that Schiphol speaks of normal crowd levels,
there are long queues for the security check. Fortunately, we booked
with KLM with Sky Priority and we can skip the line. Afterwards we drink
a cup of coffee before we go to gate B34 (at the very back of the
B-concourse) for the flight to Gothenburg. The flight takes an hour and
a quarter. In Gothenburg a Suzuki Swace from Budget
is waiting for us. We drive towards Marstrand via the Götatunnel in
Gothenburg.
We arrive in Köön around half past three. In Koön we park the car and
take the ferry to Marstrand, which is located on an island. Hotel Nautic is a 10-minute walk away. It is very
quiet on Marstrand. Almost everything is closed and there are few people
on the street. Hotel Nautic is neat, but simple. At the reception, the
room keys are in a basket with a list on which you can see which key to
take. In the afternoon we go for a walk in Marstrand, but almost
everything is closed. Only the Grand Hotel's restaurant opens at 6 p.m. We'll
have dinner there then. It's tasty, but not cheap. We part with 200
euros for a 3-course dinner with 1 glass of wine.
Weather: partly cloudy with some sunny periods. 20 degrees.
We have breakfast at the hotel. There is a wide range of breads and spreads, fruit and yoghurt. After breakfast we do a walk through the nature reserve on the island. Nice walk and fairly good walkable paths and steps. We also pass two naturist beaches, one for each gender. Back in the village we drink coffee and eat a pastry at Bergs Konditori. Unfortunately, the castle is only open on weekends.
We therefore take the ferry to the mainland and go by car to
Fiskebackskil. That is a picturesque fishing village about 68 km and 1.5
hours away. We arrive there around 1.15 pm. We walk through the village
looking for a restaurant. There is only one, at the Gullmarstrand
conference center. There we eat a delicious lunch with salmon and mashed
potatoes. 25 euros including drink and coffee.
We walk through the village again and now take some more time. We also
see the church, where the Swedish painter Carl Wilhelmson is buried.
Then we drive back to Marstrand. In the meantime it has become a bit
foggy and it is raining lightly.
In Marstrand we have dinner at Lasse Maja Krog in the evening. Fine
food. Today the pizza oven is not in operation and we take beef fillet.
Nice glass of wine.
Weather: morning sunny. 19 degrees. Afternoon foggy and drizzle, 13
degrees
Köon - Pilane - Brodalen: 140km (2:10 hrs)
At breakfast it is a lot busier this morning
than yesterday. There are especially many men, from both Sweden and
Denmark. Then we walk with suitcases and all to the ferry. It departs
just before get there. We have to wait fifteen minutes. Across the
strait I go get the car and we drive to the bakery for coffee. From
there we drive to the Pilane
Skulptur park. It's about an hour's drive from Marstrand, on the
next peninsula. Without navigation it would be difficult to find as
there are hardly any signs leading there. About 20 modern sculptures
have been erected in the park around a prehistoric grave field, which
can be viewed via a 1.6 km long route. The most impressive is Anna by
Jaume Plensa. A large female head with a remarkable perspective effect.
From Pilane we drive to Brastad, where we will stay in Villa Bro. Rock drawings Brastad Brastad, or
better Brodalen, the hamlet a few kilometers outside, where the B&B
is, is not much. We have lunch in a cheap restaurant and rest a bit. In
the afternoon we take a walk along rock paintings from the Bronze Age.
The church of Brastad is also worth a visit.
In the evening we drive to Lysekil for dinner at Publik bar & mat.
Good food, a bit loud.
Weather: 15 degrees, slightly cloudy.
Brodalen - Smögen - Fjällbacka - Brodalen: 109km
Breakfast in Villa
Bro is okay, but not very spectacular. After breakfast we drive to
Smögen, which is a picturesque fishing village on an island. We are
clearly too early and not yet in the season. That's why we drink coffee
in Kungshamn on the other side of the bridge. Then we walk through
Smögen. Beautiful waterfront with fishermen's houses, shops, restaurants
and bars. Unfortunately, almost everything is closed. Very colorful and
very Swedish. Then it starts to rain and we look for the car again.
We then drive from Fjällbacken, about 35 km away on the coast. This is
the birthplace of the writer Camilla Läckberg, of the Fjällbacka
murders. A beautiful fishing village, which clearly benefits from
tourism. It is pleasantly busy and the harbor is pleasantly developed.
There is also a chasm through which you can walk, but I don't go further
than the end of the stairs leading to it. We have lunch at the harbour.
Then we drive back Vineyard to Villa Bro.
After a rest we drive to Lysekil. Here we view the church (which is
closed on Saturdays) and the Kallbadhuset, where you can swim naked in the sea
behind a fence. The water is now 12.5 degrees warm. We drink a cocktail
with a view of the sea and then walk a bit in Lysekil, before eating at
The Olde Inn Steakhouse. Fine dining at the diner level, but the prices
don't lie. We go home a hundred euros poorer.
Weather: 12 degrees and periods of rain. Clearing up with sun later in
the day
Brodalen - Trollhättan - Brodalen: 148km
After breakfast we first drive to the supermarket for sandwiches, which we want to use for lunch. We immediately refuel at the self-service petrol station and then head for Trollhättan. There is the Saab car museum. We arrive at the museum at 10 am, but that is an hour early. Enough time to take a look at the waterfalls and locks of Trollhättan. The 1916 locks allow shipping traffic between the Vänern and the Kattegat bypassing the waterfalls in the Göta River. There are three lock systems, dating from 1800, 1844 and 1916. The latter are still in use. Apparently the water is not that high, because the falls are dry. The falls are only used at very high tide in the Vänern or on special occasions. There is enough water in the locks, which are closed very slowly. Also included in the system are two hydropower turbines for the generation of electricity. The drop in Trollhattan is 32 meters.
After this technical ingenuity, it's time for the Saab Museum. Here are cars from this illustrious car brand, which went out of business in 2011. It's a bit disappointing. There are many cars, but little is said about the history of the factory. Nothing is said at all about the relationship with the aircraft factory.
We drive back to Uddevalla, an unobtrusive town, and then to our
B&B.
Weather: initially cool, 12 degrees, and cloudy. A little drizzle in the
afternoon, but in the afternoon it will be sunny and the temperature
will rise to 17 degrees
Brodalen - Håverud - Ed: 142km
We drink coffee at the bakery in
Brastad, after which we leave for Håverud. Mostly the same road as to
Trollhättan, but a bit further. We now leave the Bohuslän region. In
Håverud, in the Dalsland region, there is a hydraulic masterpiece. It is
an aqueduct that spans a waterfall, allowing shipping traffic between
two lakes, which are part of an inland waterway route, the Dalsland
Canal. This all dates back to the early 1800s. It's an impressive sight.
We eat our sandwich on a picnic bench with a view over the aqueduct.
Then we look at the lower reaches, but a visit to the Canal Museum is
not possible, because only open from Wednesday to Sunday.
We drive on to Dals-Ed, where our
Airbnb cabin is located. We can't get in until 4 pm, so we first go
shopping at ICA supermarket
and have coffee on the market square. Then we'll just try it at half
past three. The cleaner has already left and we can get in. Beautiful
cottage, well furnished and comfortable. Quietly situated on grounds
with two more cottages.
We watch Roland Garros (Nadal wins first round) and Erik cooks a simple,
yet tasty dinner.
Weather: sunny. 12 to 17 degrees.
After breakfast in our cottage we go by car to the starting point of a
walk around Ed. As rain has been forcasted, we have chosen this route,
so that we can quickly look for a dry spot when it starts raining. We
follow the blue signs on lampposts, traffic signs and cones and read the
description in our Dutch guidebook Wandelen in Dalsland. We
start in the town of Ed, walk past the church and then we arrive at the
Elk Park. Unfortunately, it can only be visited by appointment at this
time of year. The first option is on Friday. We continue on trails
through forests, hills and along the shores of Lilla Le, the lake Ed is
built around. After more than two hours we are done. We go back to the
cottage when it starts to rain. It doesn't stop raining until the early
evening. We'll just stay indoors then, because there are no indoor
activities in the area on Tuesdays at this time of year. We watch the
Giro d'Italia on Eurosport. In the evening Erik prepares delicious food
again and afterwards we watch the Swedish TV news and some Dutch TV on
the laptop. Hopefully the weather will be better tomorrow.
Weather: partly cloudy in the morning and some sun. 15 degrees. Rain
from noon onwards.
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