Friday 20 March 2009

Rotterdam - Amsterdam - Santa Cruz - Puntagorda: 7 hour journey

 We get up at 2 am. It is only 3 hours ago that I got in bed. At 2.30 the taxi is waiting outside to take us tot Rotterdam Central Station. We get there way too early and have to wait until 3.02 am for our train to Amsterdam Airport Schiphol.   We get there by 3.56 am. We have already checked in for our flight on line and we just have to drop off our baggage. That takes a bit longer than expected as the conveyor belt has grinded to a halt. The problem is fixed within minutes.  We have a coffee at Starbuck's before we walk to the gate and board the aircraft. The Transavia flight to Santa Cruz de la Palma goes without a hitch and we arrive there after 4 hours and 10 minutes of flight. The local time is an hour behind continental Europe, so we are at the wheel of our Sixt rental car (a Volvo C30) by 9.15 am. Sixt is represented by CiCar here. We make our way to our holiday cottage on the Northwest coast of the Island. It is only 65 km, but the drive there takes us more than two hours. We drive via the old tunnel across the central mountain range along winding roads, which are in excellent condition. Half way we fill up our petrol tank and are stunned by the prices: only 67 cents for a litre of Euro95!!!  

We continue to the village of Puntagorda, and the hamlet of  El Pinar, where the owner of our cottage works at the local Spar supermarket. He takes us to the cottage, called  El Tendal on the outskirts of the hamlet. It is simple but fitted with all modern comforts including satellite tv, broadband internet, BBQ, courtyard, washing machine, garden with orange and tangerine trees. We are allowed to pick the fruits and cut the herbs from the garden. We found this place through the website of  Turismo Rural. 

We have already more than half a day behind us when we have settled down in the cottage around 12.30pm We take a break. We go out again at 1.30pm. We drive up North, via narrow and winding roads to Santo Domingo de Garafia. A sleepy village high above the sea. We take lunch in the local tavern, Bar Santo Domingo. After the lunch break we continue to Tablado. A hamlet almost isolated from the rest of the island. Here the waves burst against the rocky coast. We enjoy the spectacular views. We backtrack to the main road and veer off it again uphill to Roque de Muchachos. A narrow road with dozens of hairpin turns takes up to the astronomical observatory. During the climb it is very foggy, but just before the summit we rise above the clouds. From the top of the mountain that is in fact the edge of the Caldera de Taburiente we have amazing views over the top side of the clouds. It is cold up here, a mere 5 degrees. After taking it all in we drive back down to our cottage. We are dead beat and take a nap before we go out again to have dinner at  the restaurant Pinar de la Virgen in Puntagorda. At this time (8pm) the place is still deserted, but we don't mind. They serve regional dishes. I take rabit (small portion) and Erik the beef. We get more than we can chew. Through the darkness we drive back to our cottage and take an early night. 

Saturday 21 March 2009

We get up around 8am and have our breakfast in our cottage. I call the dive centre Tauchpartner-La Palma in Puerto Naos, but they tell me that they are heading East for an advanced dive. I have only had my diving certificate for a week so that is not my thing yet. I have to phone back on Monday when they will know wether weather and see will permit a dive.  

We change our plan and pack our walking gear and drive to Los Llanos. This is a major town (20.000 inwoners), in the centre of the island. It is pleasantly busy and we have a coffee at a sunny outside café. We have look 'round and drive on the the visitor centre of La Taburiente past the village of  El Paso, about 10km further up the road. La Taburiente is Caldera, but not one formed by volcanic activity. The crater was forged by erosion.  The road up to the viewing point El Cumbrecita, which is on the edge of the caldera is closed, because the parking lot up there is full. We have to put our name down on a waiting list and prepare for an hour's wait. So that's what we do. I drive to the village to fetch some rolls and drinks. After more than an hour and twenty minutes we are clear to drive up. Up there the view is magnificent. We walk a few kilometres to another viewing point, Lomo de las Chozas. That is even nicer. We look out over the caledra. The edge is shrouded in low clouds from time to time. The weather is sunny, and temperatures are up to 20 degrees. A walking path down to the bottom and a camp site is closed now, because of the bad condition it is in. After an hour or so we are back at the car and we drive to La Ermita Virgen del Pinar. A tiny little church at the foot of the mountains. Legend has it that shortly after the conquest of the island by the Spaniards in the 15th century, the virgin Mary appeared here under a pine tree.  

 We have another of our rolls and head back to our cottage in  nog een broodje en rijden terug naar ons huisje in Puntagorda, about an hour's drive. The sun is still shining and we sit in our porch and spend some time reading and sipping a drink before it gets too cold. Around nine we drive to Tijarafe to have dinner at restaurant La Muralla. A modern place on the edge of a ravine with sea view. We don't much of the view, because it is pitch dark outside. The food is excellent though and the waiters run back and forth. After the fine meal we drive home again through patches of thick fog, caused by the low clouds bouncing off the mountain coast. 

Weather: sunny 22 degrees in Los Llanos and around; only 15 degrees around Puntagorda when overcast.

Sunday 22 March 2009

After we breakfast we take it easy. We have coffee on our patio in the morning sun. Around eleven we head for the local Mercadillo, the regional farmers market here in Puntagorda. Twice weekly the covered market hall is full of vendors selling vegetables, fruit, meat and cheese, but also artisan work. There are remarkably many Germans here selling self made jewelry, ceramics and anything else under the sun. We buy a pot of almond butter.  We also bump into the owner of our cottage who asks if everything is still alright. We go back to our cottage and from there to La Muralla for lunch. All tables are taken but after a short wait at the bar, we get a table anyway. This time we can enjoy the view as well as the food. 

Late afternoon I set out for a walk to the coast line. It is a nice circuit with a climb of rock with a view point, decorated with a cross erected by the Hernandez family. A plaque expresses the thanks by the municipality of Puntagorda for so much generosity. The way back is rather steep. So I return sweaty but satisfied to the cottage and Erik. 

We watch some tv (Dutch language BVN). First the Flemish Sportweekend followed by Dutch Studio Sport with Dutch football. Feyenoord plays 0-0 away at AZ, the likely champion. After the football we walk to the local pizzeria. It a very friendly place, but the service is very slow. It takes more than 45 minutes to get two pizzas on our table. Fortunately they taste very good, just like the Aragonese wine (Calatayud) that comes with it. 

Weather: overcast with some sunny spells. 15 degrees

Maandag 23 maart 2009

By the time we get it is raining cats and dogs outside. After breakfast we are on our way to Los Llanos (almost hour's drive over 30km), where we have a coffee. It is sunny and warm there. We call the dive centre Tauchpartner-La Palma to ask if and where today's dives will take place. I can take part in a dive this afternoon at 1.30pm and it will be at Puerto Naos. After coffee we drive over there to have look round. The place looks fine. We then drive to Tazacorte, a little port town that lives mainly on banana plantations. It used to be sugarcane in the past. There still many mansions left built by those that thrived on the sugar bonanza of the 19th century. Today's banana plantations are even in the middle of town. It is a quaint little town, with a nice sea front and countless colourful alleys and backways.  We have a snack before we drive back to Puerto Naos. Puerto Naos is a real tourist trap with large appartment blocks and hotels and boulevard with door to door souvenir shops and bars. There is a little black beach.  

I report at the dive centre and Stephan fits me out with all the necessary gear. He will lead the dive. There another guy taking part, called Klaus. Another dive master called Robin will come along as well. When we are all set to go, Georg, the owner,  happens to return from a diving lesson. He takes us to the beach, gives us some last instructions and then we wade through the waves into the sea. We descend to about four metres, swim through some kind of canyon where we meet various types of fish like Sea Breams, Bullet fish, Parrot Fish and some Starfish. After that we descend further to 20 metres. We end up on sand plate. There is not much life there. Then we return to 6 metres and slowly move towards the beach. The dive takes about 40 minutes. The view was excellent, according to my standards, but I have only been used to a dark lake near Rotterdam. Robin is less enthusiastic and calls it moderate. But it is still about 15 metres. The water temperature was around 19 degrees, the same as the air temperature. 

After the dive, I rinse the gear, fill out the log and say goodbye to my dive buddy Robin. Erik and I drive back to Puntagorda, to our cottage El Tendal.

After a break and some tv watching, we go out for dinner at  restaurant El Piñar on the edge of the village. It is the only place open tonight. It is kind of basic and -   because the front door is kept open  -  icy cold.  The woman serving the food seems pretty depressed. When close the front door behind her back, she closes it again before we can say cheers. The meal is simple, Spanish, but good enough to eat. Nothing to recommend really. 

Weather: cloudy at times, some rain and sunny spells. 12 – 22 degrees.

Tuesday 24 March 2009

After breakfast we head off south. We break for coffee in Los Llanos at our favourite haunt next to the church on Plaza de España. After that we drive on south to Las Manchas de Abajo to admire the Plaza de Glorietta. This little square with lovely mosaics was designed by a local artist called  Luis Morera. When missed the turn off to this small village at first, but after turning around we see the right sign towards the square.

After this short visit we continue along the LP2 high above the coast. We stop again at the Mirador de Las Indias, a beautiful lookout on the West Coast. Alas, we cannot see the West Indies that gave the lookout its name. It is simply to far away. A bit further we get to Fuencaliente, that was renamed  Los Canarios a few years ago. Very confusingly both names are used side by side on road signs. We continue a bit to the turn off for  Volcan Teneguia. We leave the care here and walk on to the top of the Teneguia. This volcano is now dead, but it burst out in 1971 for the last time. The mountain is not too difficult to climb, but sturdy shoes and walking sticks come in handy. The view is nice up there and there is a strong wind. The sun is out so it is not too cold. From up there I can see the other volcano  San Antonio. I walk back to the car and we drive to Los Canarios for lunch at Tasca La Era. Their specialty is smoked cheese (Queso Asado), served in slices seasoned with green Mojo sauce. We do not think it to be that special. The main courses are much tastier. After lunch we drive to Volcan San Antonio. At a gate we have to pay €3,50 pp to get through. There is a visitor centre with a rather basic exhibition (Spanish only) on volcanism around here. We walk up to the edges of the cone shaped mountain. The crater is now dead and trees have started to grow inside. We can walk half the edge. The view is very nice. After the volcanic trip we return home. We break for a drink in  Los Llanos, that is rather quiet during siësta. A few side walk cafés are still serving and we drink a beer and a mineral water before we drive to  El Tendal in Puntagorda.

At night we dine again - tonight for the last time - at  La Muralla. We have to eat earlier than usual, as the kitchen closes at 9pm on Tuesdays. The good thing about it is that we can enjoy the view a bit before it gets dark.  

Weather: sunny. Max. 20 degrees