Bruges

part 2

Sunday 28 November 2004

Our hopes for a bike tour today are immediately quashed once we wake up by the sound of rain pouring down on the streets. It keeps on raining, so we have to abandon the  idea altogether. Instead of that we choose to explore the North Eastern part of the old town by foot armed with an umbrella. The rain is a bit of killjoy, but in this quiet part of the old town - away from the crowds - is still interesting. We stroll along the Spiegelrei, Bonne Chiere molen where once foreign merchants had their town  houses. We pass the Jeruzalem Church, once a family chapel, built in the 15th century as a copy of the Holy Sepulchre church in Jerusalem. It is located next to the  Lace centre. Unfortunately both are closed on Sundays. Not so the Bruges  museum voor volkskunde (Folklore Museum), housed in a row of almshouses. It consists of a series of period rooms focusing on industry and crafts. We carry on to the edge of the old town where we find a group of windmills. The St Janhuismolen is one of them and can be visited.  We follow the city moats have a look at the English Cloister (closed on Sunday) and return via the Spiegelrei to the Jan van Eykplein. The middle of the square is taken by a statue of the Memlingmuseumpainter who lived in Bruges for 11 years until his death in 1411. Here is also the toll house from which the dukes of Luxembourg for centuries excercised their right to levy tolls. The Toll house is 15th century, but was heavily medievalised in the late 19th century.  The rain keeps on pouring down as we head for the Memling museum. This museum is based in the St Janhospitaal. The buildings served as a hospital for 800 years until it was converted into a museum in 1976. On the one hand it displays artifacts and objects illustrating the history of the hospital, on the other hand it is the place to look art by the painter Hans Memling and his contemporaries.  Memling (1433-93) was employed by the hospital and painted several works especially for the hospital chapel. Main attraction is the altarpiece for the hospital chapel, Mystical Mariage of St Catherine, which was to offer relief for the patients and reconcile them with their destiny in the afterlife. We have lunch in the Dagelijks Brood (Daily Bread), a wholefood bakery and lunchroom, where we join the other guests at a large communal table for delicious sandwich and quiche.

In the afternoon we visit the Stadhuis (Town Hall) where the Gothic Hall is the pride of Bruges. The Hall was heavily renovated in the 19th century and the frescoes, commissioned in 1895 illustrate major events in  Flemish history. The Renaissance Hall is more historical and is housed in the neighbouring  Brugse Vrije (same ticket). It is the old Aldermen's room of Bruges with a very interesting chimneypiece from 1531. It glorifies the life and works of emperor Charles V.  The name of Brugse Vrije refers to the Bruges liberties and privileges that the city earned for itself, thus giving it a measure of autonomy under series of kings through the centuries.  All Bruges museums can be visited on a combi ticket (a choice of 5 museums for €15).

The estaminet de Garre is only yards away from here in a tiny alleyway off the Breidelstraat (easily missed) and offers a wide range of Belgian beers. We opt for a sweet Kriek (cherry beer) and a Tripel van de Garre (strong Golden Ale).

At night we eat at the Vlaamsche Pot. A tiny little restaurant with red chequered table cloths and traditional Flemish dishes. I take the waterzooi with chicken, while Erik opts for the Flemish stew. Friendly service. After dinner go for a walk looking at the beautifully lit monumental buildings.  

Weather: rain, 10ºC/50ºF .

 

 

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