Monday 29 November 2004

After breakfast we take the train to Ghent. From the railway station we take tram line #1 towards the centre. There we have coffee before we visit the St Baafskathedraal. It's main treasure is, of course, Jan and Hubert van Eyk's masterpiece, The Adoration of the Mystic Lamb (1432).  One panel has been replaced with a replica after the painting was stolen in 1934. The theft was never solved. In 1944 the entire work was taken by the Germans, but found again by the Americans in Austria in 1945.   The painting hangs in a separate chapel for which we have to pay entry. An audio guide explains panel by panel the heavy christian symbolism which is painted with needle sharp realism. After the painting the rest of the church can only be disappointing. There are a couple of Rubens paintings though, that are somewhat interesting. In the Northern transept a harp player offers some musical background. After the church we start exploring the city. First we stop and look at the Town Hall. The facade has to distinctly different parts. The left part is austerely Italian renaissance, while the right hand side is more flamboyantly gothic in its decorations. The architect Keldermans was meant to do the whole thing but the city ran out of funds when the wool trade collapsed in the late 16th century. The statues in the niches - one of which represents Keldermans himself - were added in the late 20th century. Next to the Town Hall is the Lakenhal with its Belfry. Construction started in the 16th century, but was not completed until 1903. The building now houses the tourist office. The Belfry is unfortunately is not open for visitors during the winter months. Behind the Lakenhal we find the St Nicholas church. This church is closed for renovations. We carry on to the Michiel's bridge, where a superb view on the Graslei canal awaits us. Between the bridges the Gralei holds a row of magnificent late medieval Guild houses. Starting from the Guild House of the Free Boatmen we see the Corn Measurer's House, the narrow Toll House and the 13th century Staple House.  At nr. 8 we see the mason's guild house called the Enghel (Angel). We walk on through the Breydelstraat towards the Gravensteen and the Fish Market. The Gravensteen was the castle of the Counts of Flanders. The castle dates back to 1180 and makes a somewhat sinister impression. It was not only meant to defend Ghent against outsiders but also to keep the rebellious Ghent population under control Opposite the  Gravensteen on the Veerleplein, a nice cobled square, we see the old Fish Market with a huge relief of Neptune on its facade. This god of the sea is flanked by allegoric figures representing the rivers Leie and Scheldt. A bit further on we reach the Patershol quarter. Once a working class neighbourhood it was saved in 1970 from demolition after which it recently developed into Ghent prime area for eating out. Many restaurants and bars. On the Kraanlei is the House of Alijn. Now a folk museum, but built in the 14th century as a penance for a crime of passion by two members of the Rijms family. In 1354 they killed two members of the Alijn family out of rivalry about a woman. The conflict went deeper than that and was more of a struggle between the guilds to which the families belonged.  On our way the the Vrijdagmarkt we eat a delicious soup in the Soup Lounge. On the Vrijdagmarkt square is the the trade union building 'Ons Huis' (Our House) a beautiful building dating back to the early 20th century. In the middle of the square is a statue of Guild leader  Jacob van Artevelde (1290-1345), who seems to be addressing the people of Ghent in some heroic pose. Across the square we see the guild house of the Tanners, crowned by a "Toreken" (Tower). Via the square Bij St Jacobs we return to the Town hall. In the afternoon we do some shoping in the many shopping streets of Ghent, like  Korenmarkt, Veldstraat and Langemunt.

Later that afternoon we have a drink in the lounge of Casa Rosa, the gay community centre of Ghent.  After that cocktails at Pink Flamingo a fun bar with camp 1950's theme. Meanwhile it has become dark and we stroll along the wonderfully lit Graslei towards the  Pakhuis. This a nice café - restaurant - brasserie housed in a former warehouse. The food is delicious (hare) and the entourage trendy. After the meal we return to Bruges. 

Weather: cloudy, dry. 8°C/46°F.